» in search of ice, chapel area
On our first day, we decided to ski to Chapel Falls which we hoped would be frozen and provide us with an 80 foot climb. There were 7 in our party, 2 kids and 5 adults, many of whom had little or no skiing experience. Cross-country skiing isn't a particularly challenging thing to learn, unless you are skiing down steep hills or carrying a heavy pack that throws your balance off. This is because your feet are fastened to the skis about as securely as Britney Spears' baby while she is driving. I mean, your skis aren't going to fall off, but they also aren't necessarily going to go in the direction you want them to, or not slide out from under you like banana peels.
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So, we hit the trail at about 9am and it was surprisingly free of snowmobile tracks. Only a single track from a skier and his sled, days earlier, marked the snow. The beginner skiers were carrying some of the heaviest loads (suckers!), so I was able to zip ahead of everyone to the trailhead and check out a nearby unnamed waterfall to see if it would be good for ice climbing. After wandering around for a bit and sinking into snow up to my knees, I finally found a good way to approach the falls which dropped 30 feet into a canyon. It was a nice scene with the canyon being covered in snow and ice, but there wasn't really any ice worth climbing. So, I climbed down into the canyon a bit to snap a few (40) pictures, and headed back to the trailhead.
The rest of the group was still nowhere to be seen, and they didn't respond to my calls on the 2-way radio I had left with Kai. The radios were advertised to work up for up to 8 miles in optimal (unattainable) conditions, but later in the day I would determine their range to be less than a half mile in this area. Anyway, I figured what the heck, there is nothing much to do at the trailhead, I might as well head on to Chapel Falls. So I left them a note in the snow and headed on to the falls where I arrived about 30 minutes later. The falls were still very wet and didn't look that great for climbing. Bummer. I tried to radio Kai again but he was still out of range. So at this point I was about 1.8 miles from Chapel Beach, an area I really wanted to visit because I knew it would look totally different than when I was there in January, when there was no ice on Lake Superior.
I dropped off my pack at the falls, since it had some climbing gear in it, and made a run for the beach, hoping I would make it back before the rest of the group started climbing, or at the very least, before they made it back to the car and left. I left a note in the snow again and was on my way, skiing as fast as I could. I think it took me a bit over 30 minutes to get to the beach and I was greeted by a calm, but icy Lake Superior. This time, I did not run out on the ice under Chapel Rock and fall on my ass.
I wandered around on the icy beach awhile and hiked west along the cliffs a bit where there are some interesting coves, periodically wondering where the rest of my party would be. Would the kids even make it the 5 miles to the falls? What if they had to turn around? Before I knew it, an hour had passed and I decided that I had better start making my way back even though I would have loved to explore the shoreline more.
On the way back to Chapel Falls I periodically tried making radio contact and when I was about 5 minutes from the falls I was relieved to hear Kai reply back. They had only recently made it to the falls but decided that there wasn't really enough ice to climb. So, we headed back about a half mile to the Chapel Lake overlook where there was another smaller, but climbable, ice formation. I decided to head back to Chapel Falls and hike to the base to take some pictures while they setup the ropes.
Back at the ice formation, Peter, Tyler's 10 year old son, was the first to attempt the climb. Tyler lowered him over the ~30ft cliff and Peter tried to climb back up but the ice was too hard for him to dig into. This was hard American ice, not that chintzy Taiwanese stuff you see. So, we pulled him back up and sent the next victim down. When Kai was lowered down, we knew that the only way he was making it back up was by climbing because he was too heavy to pull up. So, we all crossed our fingers and hoped that he would get stuck down there so we wouldn't have to hear him talk about saunas (he's Finnish) for the entire return trip. But, he made it up and then proceeded to taunt Peter for having to get pulled up. This, of course, was totally uncalled for, you know, because I had already taunted Peter for that. Anyway, the rest of us who wanted to climb did so without much drama. I mean we did come across some terrorists who were trying to release nerve gas in the area but we foiled their plan by informing them that they would be much better off letting it loose in a big city where there are more people.
So, when some of us went to put our ski boots back on (we switched to hiking boots for climbing) we found that they were frozen and a challenge to put on. Mine were soaking wet since I had been running around in the deep snow without gaiters and I wondered if my feet would ever warm up. They did once I started moving, and this time I was loaded up with the biggest pack and heaviest gear. Note to self: use a sled next time. I still made it back to the car first, and after scrounging up some food from Tyler's pack to relieve my hunger pangs, I made a couple trips back to the
group to help out others with their loads. So, we all made it back to the car at about 9:30pm and headed back to town for one of the greatest meals of all time. I was really impressed that the kids made it all that way, especially considering how much they had been rolling around in the snow and getting their clothes all cold and wet.
a canyon near the chapel trailhead.
an iced wall in the canyon, and paul & tyler skiing chapel road.
large ice shelf on chapel beach.
elaborate icicles on a lakeshore cliff.
looking towards grand portal point from some ice on chapel beach.
pancake ice on lake superior.
hanging ice.
glazed ice on chapel beach.
a narrow cove filled with ice chunks.
lake superior.
chapel rock.
chapel beach.
icicles.
the tree on chapel rock, one of the battleships of "battleship row", and colorful ice (the same minerals that stain the cliffs, color the ice).
cove.
cliffs west of chapel beach.
ice under chapel rock.
ice covered cliffs to the east.
cliffs east of chapel beach.
chapel falls, too wet to climb.
kai climbing some unnamed ice falls near the chapel lake overlook.
firey sunset.
» ice climbing, sand point
There are ice formations all along the cliffs near Sand Point, only hundreds of feet from a plowed road, making them much more accessible than Chapel Falls. This was a good thing because after our adventure the day before, everyone was probably hating cross-country skiing at this point. We still had the place to ourselves and started out by climbing the "Ice Curtains" and then finished off at the "Dryer Hose". The Ice Curtains are about 30ft high at points and extend horizontally for 100ft. The kids enjoyed climbing around in the ice caves created in the spaces between the cliffs and the ice, as did I. Ice climbing was awesome, especially the Dryer Hose. It's not as easy as I thought it would be though, you can't just go up wherever you want if you are climbing a vertical piece of ice, you still need to look for footholds and good places to strike your axe.
me climbing the "ice curtains".
behind the "ice curtains".
the "dryer hose" ice column, and some ice seeps.
tyler climbing, and the gang hanging out.
icicles.
me climbing the "dryer hose" (listed at 70ft), and tyler belaying.
peter exploring the ice caves.
the "amphitheater", and some other ice.
» munising falls
we had a bit of daylight left on saturday so we decided to make the short walk to munising falls just to see how it had changed since we had seen it a few months ago. turned out to be one of the cooler things we saw that weekend because at the base of the falls there was a big ice cone that had a tunnel in it and when you went into the tunnel you could see the water falling from above, inside the ice column, cascading on the rocks below, and collecting in a turbulent pool.
frozen munising falls, icicles outside an ice tunnel under the falls, and in the ice tunnel.
me near the falls, and munising creek.
» other things
grand island (left) and the frozen munising bay. the abandoned east channel lighthouse on grand island can barely be seen on the far right point of the island.
alger falls (a roadside waterfall that greets you as you enter munising from the east), and having fun with long exposures at the bridge.
» all photo reports from michigan's upper peninsula
Thinking about traveling to Pictured Rocks yourself? You might want to read my guide to Pictured Rocks.
The Upper Peninsula, Michigan
October 2 - 11, 2009
Enjoying fall in the Upper Peninsula from Pictured Rocks to the Porcupine Mountains to the Keweenaw Peninsula.
Mackinac Island, Michigan
October 3, 2009
Spending a short day on the island and enjoying the views, even without the influence of fudge.
Pictured Rocks, Michigan
March 7 - 9, 2008
Skiing & snowshoeing in the Miners Castle & Grand Sable Dunes areas. We also checked out the ice in Grand Marais & Mackinac Straits.
Pictured Rocks, Michigan
January 27, 2007
Skiing & hiking the Chapel Loop in Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore on a stormy day.
Pictured Rocks, Michigan
January 7, 2006
A backcountry ski trip to the remote lakeshore cliffs of Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore.
Pictured Rocks, Michigan
July 3 - 4, 2005
Hiking in Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, and checking out some of the other sights in the area.
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Bare Bluff, Michigan
October 8, 2009
A fall hike to Bare Bluff, one of the more scenic areas of the Keweenaw Peninsula.
Pictured Rocks, Michigan
August 30 - September 2, 2007
Back to the Great Lakes with a rare summer visit to Pictured Rocks to see what it all looks like when it's green.
Pictured Rocks in Fall, Michigan
October 7, 2006
Hiking the Chapel Loop & checking out other sights like Spray Falls, Miners Castle, Miners Beach, Munising Falls, Grand Sable Dunes, etc.
Pictured Rocks, Michigan
February 19 - 20, 2006
Skiing & snowshoeing the Pictured Rocks backcountry. Areas visited include: Miners Castle, Miners Beach, Twelvemile Beach, and Spray Falls.
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