Imagine single digit temperatures, constant blowing wind, snow squalls, and nothing but ice for miles. This is apparently not everyone's dream vacation, which explains why my venture travel company "Arctic Getaways" failed, but personally, I have a hard time thinking of any place more appealing. You might think you have to go all the way to a polar region to see such a thing, but no, every winter, the Great Lakes become a world shaped by cold, ice, wind, and waves. Note that I am not suggesting everyone should run out onto the lake ice in the winter, ice on the Great Lakes poses many dangers. You can often enjoy many ice formations from shore.
Prior to this trip I only had a vague awareness that there were some small cliffs in the "thumb" area of Michigan. I was looking for some photos of ice on Lake Huron when I came across a photo of Turnip Rock. I was dumbfounded that such a thing existed and I had never seen it before. The reason for this is that these cliffs are privately owned. However, since all of the Great Lakes shoreline is publicly accessible up to the high water line (a vague marker) and I knew there was thick ice in the area due to the cold winter, I figured it would be easy to get a look at Turnip Rock by skiing to it on Lake Huron. In the summer you can check it out by kayak (see my trip report or the Tip of The Thumb Heritage Water Trail site for more info).
So, I planned a day trip for the next weekend since Port Austin is only about 3 hours from Ann Arbor. Initially Megan was going to come with me but it's a good thing she didn't because she would not have enjoyed the cold and constant wind. Kai and I have some Scandinavian roots so the harsh weather only served to increase our enjoyment.
We parked at the public docks and began skiing out of the harbor. It felt kind of odd to be skiing past boat slips, looking up at the docks from the (frozen) water. We passed some ice fishermen in the harbor and at the local gas station the manager had told us people were going out as far as 8 miles to fish. The ice felt rock solid but it's always hard to know how safe ice is, especially on the Great Lakes, where the huge forces of the lake can cause the ice to crack or currents can weaken it. So be advised if you try something like this yourself: learn as much about the ice conditions as you can beforehand and be prepared for what you will need to do if you fall through.
The cliffs are only about 2 miles from the docks so it wasn't long before we were there. Turnip Rock is very cool but it's not that impressive in person, the trees on top are rather small so it is probably smaller than you think based on the photos (somewhere around 20 feet). It does, however, make a great subject for photography, and is quite a unique landscape for lower Michigan. Unfortunately it is not part of a park, but rather, privately owned and there are large houses all along the cliffs.
After looking around the cliffs a bit we decided that the ice was good enough for us to get out to the lighthouse which was about 1.5 miles out from where we were and 2.5 miles from where we had started. We skied out quite a ways and were confirming with each other that we both thought the ice was safe when I looked to our left and saw grass about 50 feet away from us, part of a small finger of land on the reef we were skiing over. A similar thing happened again when we were very close to the lighthouse. We were wondering about the ice and then I came to a spot where the ice was clear and I could see that the water was only a foot or two deep. This is not to say that there was no danger and if you look at our path we definitely did cross over some deep water, but I think the shallow reef serves to protect the ice in this area.
When we had started towards the lighthouse we mostly could not even see it due to the blowing snow. As we got closer and closer, the lighthouse began to take shape and the ice formations became more interesting. There were huge piles of shattered ice, clear ice that allowed us to see the lake floor below, and many patterns frozen into the ice. I was hoping it would be possible to get up on the lighthouse platform for a better view but the staircase is raised and locked.
On the way back we decided to just take the direct route, over deeper water. At times we would cross clear ice and see the lake floor was 20 feet below us. At no point, though, did the ice ever give any indication that it was anything but solid.
Kai on the "Thumbnail" with Turnip Rock in the foreground.
Pack ice and a pressure ridge of blue ice near the lighthouse. The ice is stacked up on the reef that sits just under the water here. There was open water a few hundred feet to the east of the reef.
So you all know Michigan is shaped like a mitten, but do you also know that at the tip of the thumb there is a rock formation that looks like a fingernail?
A pressure ridge on Lake Huron.
The Port Austin Lighthouse. This lighthouse sits on the end of a rocky reef that lies just under the surface of Lake Huron. The platform is 30 feet high and the lighthouse tower is 60 feet high. It would have provided an amazing view I'm sure but the stairway is raised and locked (the lighthouse is currently in the process of being restored after being overtaken by birds and weather for many years).
The Thumbnail. Looks more like an index finger to me but...
The sort of ice people dream about. Well, I do anyway!
Ice bound.
Kai.
Broken, and re-frozen. At first I thought this spot (near the lighthouse) was open water, but no, turns out it was all frozen solid. The water is not very deep here.
Part of the iced over lighthouse platform, about 2 miles from land.
In some spots, the ice was so clear you could see the lake floor below. It was kind of freaky when you could see rocks 20 feet under you. The white streaks are from blowing snow.
A pile of blue ice.
Kai approaching the cliffs.
Ice piled up along the shoal near the lighthouse.
A large ice volcano.
Left: Birch trees and Turnip Rock. Right: Behind a cliff icicle.
Frozen fish (brown trout).
Left: Clear ice reveals the lake floor, about 10 feet below us. Right: Ice chunks frozen together.
Exploring the ice.
Sunset.
As we started towards the lighthouse we couldn't even see it due to a snow squall, but eventually the weather cleared, although the wind never stopped.
I've never been happier...except on my wedding day, if Megan is reading this (Photo by Kai).
An icicle overflowing onto a tree.
This is one of the mysteries of our exploration. What are those white things on the horizon? Huge icebergs? Ice covered rocks or small islands? Some kind of man-made structures? This could haunt me until my death.
The cliffs are severely undercut, creating caves, like this (Photo by Kai).
Pressure ridge.
Patterns in the ice.
More slabs of blue ice.
Me below the lighthouse (Photo by Kai).
These are our tracks. My GPS batteries died near Turnip Rock so there is some missing data in that area. 8.1 miles total.
Video of the lake ice and blowing snow as we neared the lighthouse.
This is a wide angle view of the cliffs, Turnip Rock is on the far left and above the cliffs you can see some rich people have built some houses.
Fall in Ann Arbor, Michigan
October 2011 Fall photos, mostly from around the University of Michigan campus.
Nordhouse Dunes, Michigan
February 27 - 28, 2010 Winter camping in the Nordhouse Dunes Wilderness along Lake Michigan.
The Thumb, Michigan
September 6, 2009 Kayaking along the rocky shores of Lake Huron near Port Austin.
Spring in Ann Arbor, Michigan
April - May 2009 Photos of bright colors returning to campus and town.
Fall in Ann Arbor, Michigan
October - November 2008 A few attempts at capturing the beautiful fall colors.
Frozen Coast, Michigan
February 16, 2008 Exploring the frozen shores of Lake Michigan, from Warren Dunes to South Haven.
West Coast, Michigan
July 21, 2007 Checking out a couple of the beaches and towns of Michigan's west coast.
Northern Michigan
June 21 - 22, 2007 Canoeing the Pere Marquette River and checking out the Sleeping Bear Dunes area.
Northern Michigan
July 1 - 4, 2006 Checking out Grand Haven, Silver Lake, Sleeping Bear Dunes, and Traverse City.
Northern Michigan
July 2 - 3, 2005 Hiking the Manistee River Trail, canoeing the Jordan River, and making a brief stop at Wilderness State Park.
The Arb, Ann Arbor
January 2005 Pictures from the first big snowfall in Ann Arbor in 2005 when I skied from home to the Arb and fell into the river. |
Sleeping Bear Dunes, Michigan
October 12 - 14, 2012 Unrelenting rain drenches our fall weekend trip.
Sleeping Bear Dunes, Michigan
February 24 - 27, 2012 Winter photos from the Leelanau area, including Pyramid Point, Empire Bluffs, and Crystal Lake.
Frozen Coast, Michigan
February 20, 2010 Checking out the frozen lakeshore of Lake Michigan at Warren Dunes, St. Joseph, and Holland.
Fall in Ann Arbor, Michigan
October 2009 Fall color viewed mostly from a few tall buildings around town.
Sleeping Bear Dunes, Michigan
May 16 - 17, 2009 Enjoying springtime in Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore.
Detroit, Michigan
March 7, 2009 Making a quick and rare trip to Detroit, checking out the haunting Michigan Central Station and a few other places.
The Thumb, Michigan
January 31, 2009 Hiking along Lake Huron to see the rock formations and lighthouse near Port Austin.
Nordhouse Dunes, Michigan
July 26 - 27, 2008 A quick overnight backpacking trip into the Nordhouse Dunes Wilderness Area.
North Manitou Island, Michigan
August 11 - 12, 2007 Backpacking on North Manitou Island, enjoying the sunset, and watching storms roll off from Lake Michigan.
Botanical Gardens, Ann Arbor
July 14, 2007 Checking out the flowers and interesting plants of the Univeristy of Michigan Botanical Gardens.
Ice Storm, Ann Arbor
January 17, 2007 Pictures from around town after an ice storm coated all the trees in ice.
South Manitou Island, Michigan
July 2, 2006 Hiking to the sand dune bluffs on the west side of South Manitou Island.
Sleeping Bear Dunes, Michigan
February 27, 2006 Hiking and skiing around the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore.
Sleeping Bear Dunes Area, Michigan
May 27 - 29, 2005 Kayaking on Lake Michigan near Sleeping Bear Dunes.
Ross School of Business
Favorites My favorite photos of the Ross School of Business at the University of Michigan. |