December 24

Los Angeles, California to Little Torch Key, Florida
via the Southern Tier Bicycle Route
September 28 -December 25, 2001

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Monday, December 24, 2001 - Alligator Alley

95 miles. East of Everglades City, FL to Key Largo, FL 

     There is some debate as to which road is now actually called Alligator Alley. The Florida state road map shows I-75 as Alligator Alley but surely U.S. 41 is the original Alligator Alley, since for years it was the only road traversing the Everglades on an east-west axis. I finished off the Alley in the early morning without seeing a single gator, except for a small road killed one. 
     Most of the way is flanked by cypress, the diminutive pond cypress, and not the much larger related bald cypress. The Tamiami Canal also flanks the road for miles on the north side of the Everglades. This controls water flow into the Everglades. 
     Upon reaching Fl-997 where I would turn south towards Homestead, I paused for brunch at the Micosukee Seminole Indian gambling casino. I was a bit surprised that they allowed me entry, given my appearance, but I went upstairs past the burbling banks of slot machines and had an excellent meal from the breakfast buffet. It would keep me going for the rest of the day. I burned the 20 miles into Homestead. Here the road is flanked by large fields of vegetables and fruit grown for the nation's consumption in winter. 
     I then continued on down the Card Sound road, avoiding the heavily trafficked U.S.1. This is a flat stretch thru mangrove with a free (to bicycles) toll bridge over the Intracoastal Waterway. Right before the bridge occurred a typical traffic incident that cyclists must always be ready for. I came around a bend in the road and was confronted with three oncoming cars, the rearmost of which was swinging into my lane to pass the two cars in front. 
     He was flying and had no intention of backing off for me. I had to bail out onto the shoulder which was only a couple of feet wide because of a retaining rail common on these low-lying Key roads. It was just enough room as the car roared by inches away. Alertness is essential to navigate the dangers of the road, and dealing with oncoming traffic in your own lane is one of the most dangerous threats we face. 
     By this point I was really pumped up. From the bridge to U.S.1 I attacked and was averaging about 20 MPH. I expected homes and businesses on this stretch but this part of Key Largo is largely subtropical forest and unpopulated. I continued on to Key Largo where I got a motel room. Rates here are higher than you might expect because of the great masses of tourists. I went about 95 miles today, spurred on by the flat terrain and the looming end of the trip.

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Last updated 01/02/2002