Borders, Brothels, and Brown Coal

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As soon as we crossed the border into the Czech Republic, we noticed a smell like strong, earthy incense. I later deduced that this was the smell of burning brown coal, the mining of which the area is known for. Katarina said that in the Soviet days, the smell was 10 times as strong. I actually found the smell pleasant in low doses.

Katarina’s father had warned us that establishments with the name “bar” or “club” in the Czech Republic were actually brothels. We saw quite a few of the borderland brothels that our guidebook mentioned, with names like Club Venus and big red lips portrayed on the sign.


Approaching the border and the strange guard station.


Katarina’s father had advised us not to take the main road, which is filled with large transport trucks. We took the road alongside the Elbe/Labe river.


Driving through Usti nab Labem.


We arrived safely in Litomerice, where we would be staying for the night.


It had been snowing for the past few hours.


We ate dinner at a nice restaurant that was built in the former town wine cellar. We had 4 very filling authentic Bohemian meals, 2 mixed drinks and 3.5 liters of great Czech beer (the original bottom-fermented beer, Pilsner Urquell) all for under $35!


Katarina and Heather marking our presence in the guest book.


The view from our hotel window.


Our hotel on the main square was decorated with sgraffito. We stayed at the ritziest place in town for about $60 a room.


The Jesuit church, where a seminary was founded after the military defeat of the heretical Hussites.


A view of the south side of the main square. The chalice on top of the building is a symbol of the Hussites, who unsuccessfully opposed the corruption of the Catholic Church in the 15th century. The wine-cellar restaurant is beneath one of the buildings in the center.


Red Snapper is brushed off and ready for action.

Terezin

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