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A simple homemade Van de Graaff generator
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In the previous two projects, we stole high voltage from a television
set to power our high voltage motors. In this project we will build
a device that can generate 12,000 volts from an empty soda can and
a rubber band.
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The device is called a Van de Graaff generator. Science museums and
research facilities have large versions that generate potentials in the
hundreds of thousands of volts. Ours is more modest, but is still
capable of drawing 1/2 inch sparks from the soda can to my finger.
The spark is harmless, and similar to the jolt you get from a doorknob
after scuffing your feet on the carpet.
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To build the toy, you need:
- An empty soda can
- A small nail
- A rubber band, 1/4 inch by 3 or 4 inches
- A 5x20 millimeter GMA-Type
electrical fuse
(such as Radio Shack #270-1062)
- A small
DC motor
(such as Radio Shack #273-223)
- A battery clip (Radio Shack #270-324)
- A battery holder (Radio Shack #270-382)
- A styrofoam cup (a paper cup will also work)
- A hot glue gun (or regular glue if you don't mind waiting)
- Two 6 inch long stranded electrical wires (such as from an extension cord)
- Two pieces of 3/4 inch PVC plumbing pipe, each about 2 or 3 inches long
- One 3/4 inch PVC coupler
- One 3/4 inch PVC T connector
- Some electrical tape
- A block of wood
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That sounds like a lot of stuff, but take a look at the step-by-step
photos below, and you will find that the whole project can easily be
put together in an evening, once all the parts have been collected.
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We'll start at the bottom, and work our way up.
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Click on the image for a larger picture
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The first thing to do is to cut a 2 to 3 inch long piece of
3/4 inch PVC pipe, and glue that to the wooden base. This
piece will hold the generator up, and allow us to remove it
to more easily replace the rubber band, or make adjustments.
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The PVC "T" connector will hold the small motor. The motor fits
too loosely by itself, so we wrap paper or tape around it
to make a snug fit. The shaft of the motor can be left bare,
but the generator will work a little better if it is made fatter
by wrapping tape around it, or (better) putting a plastic rod
with a hole in the center onto the shaft to act as a pulley for
the rubber band.
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Next, we drill a small hole in the side of the PVC "T" connector,
just under the makeshift pulley on the motor. This hole will
be used to hold the lower "brush", which is simply a bit of
stranded wire frayed at the end, that is almost
touching the rubber band on the pulley.
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As the photo shows, the stranded wire is held in place with some
electrical tape, or some other tape or glue.
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The rubber band is now placed on the pulley, and allowed to hang
out the top of the "T" connector.
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Click on the image for a larger picture
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Next, cut another 3 or 4 inch piece of 3/4 inch PVC plumbing pipe.
This will go into the top of the "T" connector, with the rubber band
going up through it. Use the small nail to hold the rubber band
in place, as in the photo below. The length of the PVC pipe should
be just enough to fit the rubber band. The rubber band should not
be stretched too tightly, since the resulting friction would prevent
the motor from turning properly, and increase wear on the parts.
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Click on the image for a larger picture
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Cut the styrofoam cup about an inch from the bottom, and carefully
cut a 3/4 inch diameter hole in the center of the bottom of the cup.
This hole should fit snugly onto the 3/4 inch PVC pipe.
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Click on the image for a larger picture
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Now drill three holes near the top of the PVC union coupling.
Two of these holes need to be diametrically opposite one another,
since they will hold the small nail which will act as an axle
for the rubber band. The third hole is between the other two,
and it will hold the top "brush", which, like the bottom brush,
will almost touch the rubber band.
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The top brush is taped to the PVC union coupler, and the coupler
is placed on the 3/4 inch pipe, above the styrofoam cup collar.
The rubber band is threaded through the coupler, and held in
place with the small nail, as before.
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Bare the top brush (so it has no insulation) and twist it to
keep the individual wires from coming apart. You can solder the
free end if you like, but it is not necessary.
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The free end of the top brush will be curled up inside the empty
soda can when we are done, and thus electrically connect the soda
can to the top brush.
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Click on the image for a larger picture
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We need a small glass tube to act as both a low-friction top pulley,
and as a "triboelectric" complement to the rubber band, to generate
static electricity by rubbing. Glass is one of the best materials
to rub against rubber to create electricity.
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We get the tube by taking apart a small electrical fuse. The metal
ends of the fuse come off easily if heated with a soldering iron or
a match. The solder inside them drips out when they come off, so
be careful. The glass, the metal cap, and the molten solder are
all quite hot, and will blister the skin if you touch them before
they cool.
Save the metal caps -- we will use them in a future
project!
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Click on the image for a larger picture
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The resulting glass tube has nice straight, even edges, which are
"fire polished" for you, so there is no sharp glass, and no uneven
edges to catch on the PVC and break the glass.
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The next step is a little tricky. The small nail is placed through
one of the two holes in the PVC union coupler, and the small glass tube
is placed on the nail. Then the rubber band is placed on the
glass tube, and the nail is then placed in the second hole. The rubber
band is on the glass tube, which is free to rotate around the nail.
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Click on the image for a larger picture
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Now we glue the styrofoam collar in place on the PVC pipe.
I like to use a hot glue gun for this, since the glue can be
laid on thickly to stabilize the collar, and it sets quickly
and does not dissolve the styrofoam.
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Click on the image for a larger picture
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At this point we are ready for the empty soda can.
Aluminum pop-top cans are good for high voltage because
they have nice rounded edges, which minimizes "corona discharge".
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With a sharp knife, carefully cut out the top of the soda can.
Leave the nice crimped edge, and cut close to the side of the
can so as to leave very little in the way of sharp edges. You
can smooth the cut edge by "stirring" the can with a metal tool
like a screwdriver, pressing outward as you stir, to flatten the
sharp edge.
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Tuck the free end of the top brush wire into the can, and invert
the can over the top of the device, until it rests snugly on the
styrofoam collar.
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Click on the image for a larger picture
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The last step is to attach the batteries. I like to solder a
battery clip to the motor terminals, and then clip this onto
either a nine-volt battery, or a battery holder for two AA
size batteries. The nine-volt battery works, but it runs the
motor too fast, making a lot of noise, and risking breakage of
the glass tube. It does, however, make a slightly higher voltage,
until the device breaks.
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Click on the image for a larger picture
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To use the Van de Graaff generator, simply clip the battery to the
battery clip. If the brushes are very close to the ends of the rubber
band, but not touching, you should be able to feel a spark from the
soda can if you bring your finger close enough. It helps to hold onto
the free end of the bottom brush with the other hand while doing this.
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Click on the image for a larger picture
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To use our generator to power the Franklin's Bells we built in the
previous section
of the book, clip the bottom brush wire to one "bell", and attach a
wire to the top of the generator, connecting it to the other "bell".
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The pop-top clapper of the Franklin's Bells should start jumping between
the soda cans. It may need a little push to get started.
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Click on the image for a larger picture
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You may have at one time rubbed a balloon on your hair,
and then made the balloon stick to the wall. If you
have never done this, try it!
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The Van de Graaff generator uses this trick and two others
to generate the high voltage needed to make a spark.
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The first trick
When the balloon made contact with your hair, the molecules
of the rubber touched the molecules of the hair. When they
touched, the molecules of the rubber attract electrons from
the molecules of the hair.
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Then you take the balloon away from your hair, and some of those
electrons stay with the balloon, giving it a negative charge.
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The extra electrons on the balloon repel the electrons in
the wall, pushing them back from the surface. The surface
of the wall is left with a positive charge, since there are
fewer electrons than when it was neutral.
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The positive wall attracts the negative balloon with enough
force to keep it stuck to the wall.
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If you collected a bunch of different materials and touched
them to one another, you could find out which ones were left
negatively charged, and which were left positively charged.
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You could then take these pairs of objects, and put them in order
in a list, from the most positive to the most negative. Such a
list is called a Triboelectric Series. The prefix Tribo-
means "to rub".
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Our Van de Graaff generator uses a glass tube and a rubber band.
The rubber band steals electrons from the glass tube, leaving the
glass positively charged, and the rubber band negatively charged.
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The second trick
The triboelectric charging is the first trick. The second trick
involves the wire brushes.
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When a metal object is brought near a charged object,
something quite interesting happens. The charged object causes
the electrons in the metal to move. If the object is charged
negatively, it pushes the electrons away. If it is charged
positively, it pulls the electrons towards it.
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Electrons are all negatively charged. Because like charges
repel, and electrons are all the same charge, electrons will
always try to get as far away from other electrons as possible.
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If the metal object has a sharp point on it, the electrons on
the point are pushed by all of the other electrons in the rest
of the object. So on a point, there are a lot of electrons
pushing from the metal, but no electrons pushing from the air.
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If there are enough extra electrons on the metal, they can push
some electrons off the point and into the air. The electrons
land on the air molecules, making them negatively charged.
The negatively charged air is repelled from the negatively
charged metal, and a small wind of charged air blows away from
the metal. This is called "corona discharge", because the
dim light it gives off looks like a crown.
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The same thing happens in reverse if the metal has too few
electrons (if it is positively charged). At the point, all
of the positive charges in the metal pull all the electrons
from the point, leaving it very highly charged.
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The air molecules that hit the metal point lose their electrons
to the strong pull from the positive tip of the sharp point.
The air molecules are now positive, and are repelled from the
positive metal.
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The third trick
There is one more trick the Van de Graaff generator uses. After
we understand the third trick, we will put all of the tricks together
to see how the generator works.
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We said earlier that all electrons have the same charge, and so they
all try to get as far from one another as possible. The third trick
uses the soda can to take advantage of this feature of the electrons
in an interesting way.
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If we give the soda can a charge of electrons, they will all try
to get as far away from one another as possible. This has the
effect of making all the electrons crowd to the outside of the
can. Any electron on the inside of the can will feel the push from
all the other electrons, and will move. But the electrons on the outside
feel the push from the can, but they do not feel any push from the air
around the can, which is not charged.
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This means that we can put electrons on the inside of the can, and they
will be pulled away to the outside.
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We can keep adding as many electrons as we like to the inside of the
can, and they will always be pulled to the outside.
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Putting all three tricks together
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So now let's look at the Van de Graaff generator with our three tricks
in mind.
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The motor moves the rubber band around and around. The rubber band
loops over the glass tube and steals the electrons from the glass.
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The rubber band is much bigger than the glass tube. The electrons
stolen from the glass are distributed across the whole rubber band.
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The glass, on the other hand, is small. The negative charges that
are spead out over the rubber band are weak, compared to the
positive charges that are all concentrated on the little glass tube.
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The strong positive charge on the glass attracts the electrons in
the wire on the top brush. These electrons spray from the sharp
points in the brush, and charge the air. The air is repelled
from the wire, and attracted to the glass.
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But the charged air can't get to the glass, because the rubber
band is in the way. The charged air molecules hit the rubber,
and transfer the electrons to it.
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The rubber band travels down to the bottom brush. The electrons
in the rubber push on the electrons in the wire of the bottom brush.
The electrons are pushed out of the wire, and into whatever
large object we have attached to the end of the wire, such as the
earth, or a person.
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The sharp points of the bottom brush are now positive, and they
pull the electrons off of any air molecules that touch them.
These positively charged air molecules are repelled by the
positively charged wire, and attracted to the electrons on the
rubber band. When they hit the rubber, they get their electrons
back, and the rubber and the air both lose their charge.
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The rubber band is now ready to go back up and steal more electrons
from the glass tube.
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The top brush is connected to the inside of the soda can.
It is positively charged, and so attracts electrons from the can.
The positive charges in the can move away from one another (they
are the same charge, so they repel, just like electrons). The positive
charges collect on the outside of the can, leaving the neutral
atoms of the can on the inside, where they are always ready to
donate more electrons.
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The effect is to transfer electrons from the soda can into the ground,
using the rubber band like a conveyor belt. It doesn't take very long
for the soda can to lose so many electrons that it becomes 12,000 volts
more positive than the ground.
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When the can gets very positive, it eventually has enough charge to
steal electrons from the air molecules that hit the can. This happens
most at any sharp points on the can. If the can were a perfect sphere,
it would be able to reach a higher voltage, since there would be no
places where the charge was more concentrated than anywhere else.
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If the sphere were larger, an even higher voltage could be reached before
it started stealing electrons from the air, because a larger sphere
is not as "sharp" as a smaller one.
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The places on our soda can where the curves are the sharpest are where
the charge accumulates the most, and where the electrons are stolen
from the air.
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Air ionizes in an electric field of about 25,000 volts per inch.
Ionized air conducts electricity like a wire does. You can see the
ionized air conducting electricity, because it gets so hot it emits
light. It is what we call a spark.
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Since our generator can draw sparks that are about a half inch long,
we know we are generating about 12,500 volts.
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Some fun with the Van de Graaf generator
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One of the fun things to do with a Van de Graaff generator is to
show how like charges repel.
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We take a paper napkin, and cut thin strips of the lightweight paper.
We then tape the ends of the paper together at one end, and tape that
end onto the Van de Graaf generator.
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The effect will look somewhat like long hair cascading down the soda can.
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Now turn the Van de Graaff generator on. The thin strips of paper all
get the same charge, and start to repel from one another. The effect
is "hair raising". The strips start to stand out straight from the
can, like the hair on the back of a scared cat.
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This motor is very simple to build, and goes together in a few minutes.
All you need is two pieces of wire, the small metal cap from the fuse
we took apart in the previous project, and some cellophane tape.
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The motor creates an ion wind that spins it around like a helicopter.
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Click on the image for a larger picture
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First, take one piece of wire (a straightened paper clip will do),
and cut the end at an angle so it is sharp.
Bend the other end into a rough loop or triangle, so the wire will
stand up with the sharp point facing straight up. A little tape
will help hold it onto the table, or a block of wood.
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Click on the image for a larger picture
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The armature (the part that spins) is made from the other piece of wire
and the metal cap we saved when we took apart the fuse.
Sharpen both ends of the wire by cutting the ends at a diagonal, like we
did with the base wire.
Bend the wire into an S shape.
The pointed ends of the wire should point at 90 degrees from the center
straight part of the wire.
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Click on the image for a larger picture
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Attach the metal cap to the center of the wire with tape.
Place the cap onto the pointed end of the base wire, and bend the
S shaped ends of the armature wire down, so it will balance easily
on the sharp end of the base wire.
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The armature should now spin freely if you tap it gently.
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Connect a source of high voltage to the base wire using an alligator
clip or a wire. The high voltage source can be the Van de Graaff
generator, or just a couple square feet of aluminum foil pressed
against the front of your television set, as we did in earlier
projects.
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As the high voltage is turned on, the armature will start to spin
in the direction away from the sharp points. The Van de Graaff
generator may need a good ground, or a person holding onto the
ground wire. The television will give the motor a good kick
every time it is turned on or off, and turning it on and off
every second will get it spinning quite rapidly.
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The motor works by ionizing the air, and then pushing against the
ionized air.
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As we explained in the previous project, electric charges are concentrated
by sharp points. The sharp points on the ends of the armature concentrate
the charges so much that the air around the points becomes charged as well.
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Since the air has the same charge as the wire, the two repel one another.
You can actually feel a small wind coming from the sharp point.
As the wire pushes on the charged air, they both move away from one
another. The air blows away, and the wire spins.
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