November 4

Los Angeles, California to Little Torch Key, Florida
via the Southern Tier Bicycle Route
September 28 -December 25, 2001

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Sunday, November 4, 2001 - No Wind Is Good Wind

44 miles. Campwood, TX to Lost Maples State Park, near Vanderpool, TX 

     Today was one of those rides that you would bottle up and save if possible. A cold front came thru yesterday evening and the temp today was in the low 70's. We cruised the four miles into Camp Wood (pop. 595) and had our second breakfast. It was a good thing because it was to be a strenuous ride. The next 40 miles were thru the heart of the Texas Hill Country. First a word about these Texas hills; as you would expect in Texas they are not really "hills" but in reality they are small mountains. They have all the attributes of mountains except they only go up to 2,300 feet or so. Local relief is over 1000 feet in some places and we were in all of those places today as we cruised thru the heart of the hills. 
     There were three major climbs as steep as any we have encountered on the trip and the last descent was notably sharp and steep. There are lots of trees now and looking off into the valleys reminded us of the Appalachians. It took us six hours to do the 40 miles and I think we are finally over exhaustion caused by our debacle with wind a few days ago. Total climbing was about 2,500 feet. 
     After the first 20 miles we had lunch in Leakey (pop. 397). It appears to be a prosperous little town compared to what we have gotten used to in west Texas. We are now encountering streams that actually have water in them and are spending the night in Lost Maples State Park. It turns out that this is one of the most popular parks in Texas because there is a relic stand of Big Tooth Maple (Acer Grandidentatum) here and real fall color is possible. It is located in a protected canyon that spawns the Sabinal River and the maples thrive here. 
     Unfortunately this may not be a good color year because it has not yet gotten cold and the maples are just turning brown and dropping. It is interesting how much value people place on fall color to signify the changing of the seasons because most of the other trees here have no real color. They often hold their leaves until January and start a new crop by the end of February. We did notice a bit of color leaving Leakey along the Frio River. We had read an historical marker indicating that the first settler in Leakey [the town was named after him] started making cypress shakes. 
     Leaving town we came across bald cypress growing right along the river. It had a pale crimson hue and I was surprised to see it growing so far inland up in these hills. Sycamore also put in an appearance and it is nice to see familiar eastern trees starting to make their cameo appearances. 
     Because the park is always full this time of year we were lucky to get in at all to camp. Michigan and many other states we have been in have the eminently sensible policy of allowing cyclists to camp somewhere as overflow if the park is full. Texas' learning curve here is not what it is in other areas. As I walked out of the office so as not to say something stupid as Joan was pleading our case, a generous couple from Nebraska offered to let us camp in the tent site down the bank from their campsite and thus was crisis averted. It looks like those Cornhuskers are alright after all. They've got some great lotion too.

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