LEAD
The Suit
By Donald Vernon-Blake Plassman, Burton Simpson & Emanuel Alvarez
April 20, 2010
If you're reading this, you know that when a guy needs to look classy, he needs a suit, plain and simple. Unfortunately, many see the suit as tied to formality, which is why it often becomes a deadlocked garment: Perpetually relegated to interviews, weddings, funerals and the like. So, if the suit is strictly seen as formal attire, why wear it in any other situation?
Newsflash: Suits aren't just formal dress; they come in a variety of styles to fit an array of different occasions. Beyond that, just as black-tie attire boosts an event's prestige, wearing a suit makes a man stand out in a crowd. Obviously, you can't just don a five thousand dollar to go grocery shopping; no suit works for every guy in every situation. A few basic style elements work for nearly any suit, but some are specific to the individual, and others determine the suit's level of formality. In casual settings, the appropriate suit improves a man's look, but the overzealous suit looks makes it look like you're trying too hard. Honestly, it time to break out the suit! Sleek classiness has been languishing in your closet too long. We're not saying you should wear a suit while bass fishing with your uncle Ted, but there's no reason you can't wear one to his trailer park kegger.
Since men's fashion in general has lately turned towards more close-fitting streamlined jackets and thin-cut pants, suits have followed suit (ha! Pun!). What this means, is that you should be looking for jackets with a slim waist and slim trousers. However, this doesn't mean that you want to appear slight and feminine. Quite the contrary: For an effective look, go with broader shoulders and you'll get that ''surreally untouchable'' look.
Patterns can immediately identify a suit as either formal or casual. Alongside the comeback of the classic cut, some older patterns have made a comeback. Houndstooth, herringbone, Prince of Wales check, pinstripe, and rope-strip currently reign as the fashionable choices. Any of these are fine for casual attire, but more formal suits generally feature solid or pinstripe patterns. Also, both small guys and large guys benefit from vertical stripes, which lengthen the frame. Tall and thin men should avoid these for the same reason.
Buttons affect how tall the suit looks: more conveys a longer look. For this reason, one button is right for a tall man, two buttons gives slightly more height and looks modern, three buttons creates a tall look that may not fit every person, and four buttons is not a good idea for anyone. Placement of these buttons also matters, taller men require higher button stances to be proportional.
Shoulders are big right now. That is to say, big shoulders are big. A properly constructed padded shoulder can give arms a more muscular look. Remember to keep this proportional, so it doesn't throw off the overall look.
Vents prevent the suit jacket from becoming too tight around the back. A thin guy may only need one vent, but larger men might require more. Two side vents are the standard for most suits, casual or formal. This will only change with jackets for the most formal suits.
Lapels help determine how formal a suit is. Notched lapels work well in informal settings, and never appear on double-breasted suits. Peaked lapels are more formal, and characteristic of double-breasted suits, though they are not limited to these. Shawl lapels belong strictly to formal evening wear.
Fabric: When considering a suit purchase, fabric is more important than you might think. This simple question helps determine price, formality, maintenance, and seasonal wearability. Here's the lowdown on a few common fabrics:
- Wool: Formal, and creases very little. While expensive, many prefer its sheer classiness. It's heavier though, and should be reserved for the cooler months
- Cotton: Less formal than wool, and likewise less expensive (in general). This is the safe option, appropriate for all seasons.
- Linen: Has the potential to accumulate the most creases, but is easily wearable in warmer climates.
Now that you know the basics of suit style, here a few more options to mull over before you run out to buy your sleek , new, and fashionably necessary attire: As far as slim masculinity goes, the double-breasted suit is tops. Currently, the most popular cut seems to be the ''Kent,'' due to its slimming properties. To take advantage of a double-breasted look, you do however, need to be sure that you get the right fit. As with all suits, proper tailoring does wonders. Another classic, yet currently hip style is the three-piece suit. Don't be afraid to venture beyond the dour tones of yesteryear, as patterns are making a comeback. Utilize these patters tastefully, either use matching patterns/colors on all three pieces or stick to one color palette; without a standard to build your new get-up upon, the three-piece can be subject to undue wonkiness.
Special thanks to The Friars
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Arvind and Dom